Kerry Trip Report

Report by Eva

Carrauntoohill from near Cronin’s Yard (photo: Alistair)

Thursday the 11th of July, day 1.

The Belfast group consisting of Eva, Rónán and Lisa left Belfast with great anticipation and a car packed so well that only years of practising Tetris made it possible. After a long and uneventful journey with just a short stop at the infamous Obama Plaza in Moneygall, we arrived at our destination - Cronin’s Yard. We put up our tents just in time for the arrival of Vicky, Kyle and Alistair.

Friday the 12th of July, day 2.

Friday morning started with cloudy weather, perfect for climbing up the highest peak in Ireland – Carrauntoohil. We hiked up to the Heavenly Gates, where we started our climb up the Howling Ridge, stunning 450 m V-Diff grade route which, for some of us, was an introduction into ridge climbing. We completed the climb in two groups of three, using Alpine style techniques. All the efforts, sweat and Alistair’s tears were worth it once we reached the peak with these beautiful views (which disappeared as soon as we neared the top!). From there, we continued our ridge scrambling towards Beenkeeragh in the mist. After a few “Are we there yet?” moments, we reached Ireland’s second highest peak and were ready for our descent down the gully, with some beautiful views over the Hag’s Glen. While some of us decided to embrace the cold and freshen up in the river, Rónán and Lisa went ahead of the group to prepare some well-deserved barbeque.

Lisa and Vicky at the Start of Howling ridge (photo: Alistair)

Lisa halfway up Howling Ridge (Photo: Rónán)

Lisa and Vicky near the top of Howling Ridge (Photo: Rónán)

Can you spot Kyle, Eva and Alistair? (Photo: Rónán)

Great view at the top (Photo: Eva)

Lisa and Rónán at the top of Carrauntoohill (Photo: Vicky)

Vicky and Eva scrambling on The Bones Arete on way to Beenkeeragh (Photo: Rónán)

Saturday the 13th of July, day 3.

Saturday was a sunny day with perfect conditions for some rock climbing in the nearby Gap of Dunloe. We stopped at an incredibly easily accessible Brennan’s Leap, with short yet strenuous routes ranging from HS to E3. All of us had our go at leading and even got to try to top-rope the hardest climb here (Deadline, E3 6a), after Kyle’s impressive lead seconded by Rónán. As the weather more resembled the conditions in the south of Europe, some of us decided to cool down our burned bodies in the nearby lake.

While Vicky headed down toward Kerry airport to leave us dirty rock climbers for the white elegance of Wimbledon, Rónán did a quick run up Carrauntoohil to get some more presentable pictures of the view from the top.

Brennan’s Leap, the ultimate roadside crag. (Photo: Alistair)

The actual view from the Top of Carrauntoohill, towards Cnoc na Toinne and the Big Gun (photo: Rónán)

Towards Cronin’s, Killarney and a rainbow from Carrauntoohill summit (photo: Rónán)

Obligatory evidence of Rónán running up Carrauntoohill in a BARF vest, a different Belfast based club!!!

Sunday the 14th of July, day 4.

We continued our climbing in the Gap of Dunloe, this time at a crag called the Bothán. Another good day of climbing, with Lisa leading Agent Orange (HS 4b), Eva leading The Ego Has landed (VS 4b), Rónán and Eva leading Raven (HVS 5a), Kyle and Rónán leading Ljubljana (E1 5c), topped off with Kyle leading Disco Legs (E3 5c) and everyone else having a go at it on top rope. The day was once again finished by a jump in the lake.

Kyle on Disco Legs, Bothán, Gap of Dunloe. (Photo: Alistair)

Monday 15th of July, day 5.

The Gap from Bothán (Photo: Alistair)

Monday morning was a good reminder of the importance of checking oneself and one’s possessions before leaving climbing crags, but all was good once Eva’s wallet was found after a quick paced and refreshing walk on the top of Bothán. Afterwards we set off for the long journey home.

To conclude this report, the Kerry trip was a definite success, with a combination of beautiful weather, good company and some picture-postcard rock climbing.

A Kayak being taken for a walk at the Eagle’s Nest on Carrauntoohill. (Photo: Rónán)

No Ozone this week and update on Moorhill Quarry

Club times

This is a quiet time of year for indoor climbing but club times will go ahead as normal over the next few weeks, except for this Thursday (11 July) when the Ozone will be closed.

The weather is reasonably good, so keep an eye on the club facebook page to see who’s heading out.

Moorhill Quarry

Moorhill Quarry in Newry (UKC page here) is a recently developed roadside trad climbing venue. There have been rumblings of access issues but these appear to be resolved.

From Michéal Murphy:

Peter, the owner of the gun and airsoft club, has placed a pad lock on the upper gate and asked that the code be shared with other climbers so that we can use it as a car park.

The code is 3544..

He will have someone spray the weeds to make the parking area larger and to combat the giant hog weed. He is also happy if we use their shed at the top.

He stated that he was more than happy to share the area with climbers and is grand for climbing to take place while they are airsofting...

On the issue of health and safety he said they are using low pressure guns that are out of range of the rock faces and have consciously erected their shooting area away from the rock. There may be 5-6 routes on the far side of the quarry you may wish to be careful of if they are airsofting but the other ~45 should be ok.

Kerry Trip - 11 - 15 July

The club will be decamping to Cronin’s Yard in the heart of the McGillicuddy’s Reeks in Kerry over the weekend of 12 July.

For members interested in coming please fill in this form by Thursday 4 July.
Cost will be €32 (for camping) plus fuel costs.