Wicklow 2026 - Trip Report

Continuing our exploration of the island of Ireland, BCC headed to Co. Wicklow for the final official club trip of 2026 over the weekend of 4-6 Sept.  We based ourselves at the very well-equipped Wicklow Way campsite, which was well positioned between the two main climbing areas of Glendalough and Luggala.  John, Jon, Ashley and Richard headed down on Friday night, with Steph joining on Saturday morning.

The Luggala crag is in a fantastic setting, just above Lough Tay

First thing Saturday, we all headed to Luggala to tackle the 3-star 5 pitch S 4a, Pine Tree Buttress – I mean, what’s not to like about that?  The approach we took is described in the guidebook as “circuitous”, and they’re not wrong! Beware the boulder field with waist-high bracken…. At least the crag was easy to identify at a distance, as were the routes, so our starting point was easily found. When we arrived, there was a local climber already on the route cleaning it and he was surprised to see anybody else there (this is the most popular route at the area’s most popular crag, and yet it obviously doesn’t get much traffic).

Ashley and Richard doing a bit of gardening

Ashley and Richard set off first, but the route quickly proved to be high in the grade, with a cam being abandoned on pitch 2 to protect a down-climbing move for Ashley on second.  Despite the morning's cleaning efforts, the route was still very dirty and overgrown, which all added to the experience!  Pitches 4 and 5 were also very run-out with gear being quite sparse at times.  The final belay was from a massive pine tree, which was a welcome sight.

Steph heading up the 2nd pitch

The walk off looked horrendous, and ever keen to avoid anything were the risk of death creeps above 50%, Richard and Ashley decided to abseil from the pine tree to the anchor at the top of pitch 2 (a small but robust holly tree) using the 60m half ropes to form a recoverable abseil, which would (only just) get to the next anchor.  Richard went first and passed Jon on pitch 4 who had badly sprained his ankle and was now stuck, unable to continue climbing.  After a quick conversation, it was decided that once Richard had reached the anchor,  Jon would swap onto the abseil and head down.  Also not fancying the walk-off, John and Steph also decided to take advantage of the abseil.  Not wanting 5 people gathered at the pitch 2 belay, Steph came down with their 50 m single, and that was set as a second abseil to start getting people to the ground.  Once the other 4 were on the ground, Richard pulled the 60 m halve ropes and then reset them as a recoverable abseil on the pitch 2 holly tree.  Keen to not leave anything behind, Richard attempted to traverse across the pitch to retrieve Ashley’s cam, couldn’t get to it, but did manage to jam the ropes in a crack, making it impossible to retrieve them. With darkness not far off, and with a (just about) walking casualty, it was decided to abandon the ropes in situ and attempt recovery the following day.

Jon at the start of the 3rd pitch

With Jon and John going to the Emergency Department in Newry and Steph heading back to Belfast, it was just Ashley and Richard remaining to make the slog back to the crag the next day.  The recovery was a relatively simple process, with Richard jumaring back up the stuck ropes to free them and then abseiling back down, this time able to pull the ropes successfully.  Ashley’s cam, unfortunately, is still there.  After enough excitement for one weekend, it was decided to head home, via a dirty big burger at the Castlebellingham services.

Richard very happy to have recovered his ropes!

So, will we be back?  There is some unfinished business (a cam to recover), but of the 102 routes at Luggala, this was the only one below VS.  We didn’t get a chance to visit Glendalough, but that would seem to have more opportunity at HS and below, making it a more accessible option for the majority of the club – at least if we go next year we’ll know what we’re getting into!

The views made it all worth while!

Malin Beg 2026 – Trip Report

BCC headed back to Donegal 21-23 Aug, this time to the wonderful location of Malin Beg. This was the location of the Colmcille Climbfest in 2025 and had been on the BCC wish list since then. In total, 22 members signed up for the trip, and we were also delighted to be joined by David Walsh and Phil Mannus from Comcille Climbers who provided some very welcome local knowledge.

Wonderful climbing 10 min walk from the campsite

After a long drive on Friday evening, it was great to see that the self-appointed BBQ Rep (Fergus) had already got the cooking going, so only just enough time to get the tent up before burgers and box-cider.

It looks colder than it actually was!

The next morning whilst most of us were sorting breakfast, two of the newer embers of the club (Michael and Craig) were seen heading off to the dock in wetsuits for a bracing morning swim. After the more conventional caffeine kick-start to the morning for the remainder, everyone loaded up for the taxing 10 min walk to the climbing. One of the many appeals of Malin Beg is that there is such a great variety of climbing within a very short walk of the campsite, some of which can be scrambled down to, and Neptune Wall proved very popular for this reason.

Catriona happy to have led to the top of Neptune Wall

After a full day of climbing, the last climbers returned to the campsite after dark, delighted to see that Fergus was once more working his magic with the BBQ. Whilst enjoying the warm glow of the firepit, Richard produced an A4 sized chocolate bar, to which Gemma asked “are you sharing that” in a way that was clearly not phrased as a question!

Craig show-boating in approach shoes whilst Michael bids for “coolest looking belayer”

That night, there is a suspicion that Ashley was hanging around outside people’s tents whispering “slab, slab…” because for some inexplicable reason, even those that hate slab climbing headed off the following morning to climb slabs. It turns out that slab climbing is Ashley’s most favourite thing, until it comes with approximately zero protection!

Gemma and Owen above the Island Channel

Away from the slab, the club ab rope got its second outing and was set-up at Prawn Sawn all day, a fantastic little crag with routes from VD to HVS, with Jetsam (HS) proving to be a fan favourite. The day finished with a return to Neptune wall to revisit the 3-star routes Bosun’s Ladder (S 4a) and Hydrophobia (VS 4b).

Ashley leading Jetsam

So, Donegal delivered once again, with good weather and fantastic climbing. Malin Beg will certainly be on the BCC calendar for next year, but if this year has taught us anything, it’s that we’ll need lots of small gear if we’re heading near the slabs. A set of DMM Peanuts is already on order. Another thing we all learnt is that Catriona is really smart, although not smart enough to remember to pack up her camping chair!

Gola 2026 - Trip Report

No trip of this size can run completely smoothly, and the first problem with this one was trying to get an old person to operate Google forms, documents and sheets.  After several hours of “I still don’t have access” messages, the registration was up and running almost seamlessly, with 32 club members eventually signing up.

The move to the Island was staged over 2 days, with the early group of Richard, Keelan, Andrew and Gemma taking the conventional route of the ferry, whilst Conor and Michael opted for the higher-end option of being personally delivered to the island courtesy of Paul and his catamaran.  Some great first day climbing was had at the walk-in crags of Ballai Mhachaire na nGall and Inland Crag.

Arriving in style courtesy of Paul and his catamaran

Day 2 saw the very first outing of the new club abseil rope which was set-up at Gripple Wall, with a queue of people looking to do the Gola classics of Pride of Gola and Maid of Gola.  Unfortunately, our time there was cut short, as Lisa reported from the bottom of the crag that a rising tide combined with a large swell was making conditions at the belay difficult.  In hindsight, what was up to Lisa’s knees would have only been up to everyone else’s ankles, but none the less, the decision was made to abandon the sea cliffs and head to the Inland crag (for those that hadn’t been there the day before) or to the Easter Wall. 

Weathered Window at the Inland Crag - HS in the guide book, now VS 4b on UKC.

Due to a distinct lack of firewood, team ‘beach bonfire’ had to go into scavenging mode that night and collect what driftwood we could from the beach.  It doesn’t matter whose stupid idea it was to roll a massive log from one end of the beach to the other (it was Steven), but fortunately, Alan was on hand with clear “this is how we move 1 ton steel beams” instructions, and with the use of various slings and ropes, we managed to at least get the end hanging over the fire.  

Teamwork makes the dream work!

And if you’re wondering who brings a chainsaw on a climbing trip, the answer is Paul, and we were all very grateful for this unusual addition to his trad-rack!  The evening also brought the revelation from Michael that he believes that “tuna is a shifty fish”, a comment made whilst passing around his famous loaf of cheese.  Lovers of dairy products will be glad to know that Michael rarely travels without cheese.

Paul has developed a very particular set of skills…..

With a later high tide, Day 3 brought a return to the sea cliffs.  Run of the Arrow was on many people’s tick-lists, but unfortunately a family of cormorants had set-up home on what was clearly their favourite route as well!  Maybe next year.  There was plenty of other climbing available on the Main Wall, where most of the club based themselves for the day in absolute baking sunshine. From the top of Main Wall there were also great views of Gemma and Andrew climbing really hard stuff across the water at Twin Cave Buttress. One of the highlights of the day was being able to use the skills acquired on the recent club-sponsored self-rescue course to retrieve a stuck climber – you never know when these skills will come in handy.  A special mention is also required here for Richard G and Ewan for being possibly the first people in club history to bake bread whilst on a climbing trip.  Apparently, it was epic!

Lisa making sure the sea is far enough away from the belay at Gripple Wall

Day 4 was the hottest day of the weekend, making it almost too warm to climb (what else do you expect in Donegal?), but as luck would have it, there was a free music festival on the Island.  Ash and Robyn were mistaken for some minor celebrity musicians and were very happy to embrace this new-found celebrity status.  At least they didn’t abuse this position by jumping the queue for the ferry – unlike the actual musicians!

Once again, Gola delivered.  Great weather, great craic and great climbing, with several of the club’s experienced sport climbers including Adam, Vicky, Richard G and Catriona getting their first trad leads.  Legislator has been something of a rite of passage for many BCC members over the years! 

I’m looking forward to next year already….

The end of one trip, but looking forward to the next.

Costa Blanca 2026 – Trip Report

The adventure began even before take-off, with the important reminder that EasyJet check-in opens 30 days prior to departure - a detail some members appreciated more than others. Fortunately, Vicky’s excellent people skills ensured the final two participants made it onto the flight, averting pre-trip disappointment.

Meanwhile, the advance party of Michael, Daniel B, Catriona, and Conor were already established on Spanish rock as the rest of us were boarding. During the flight, an additional safety protocol was observed: while we can’t officially confirm that Paul G is a nervous flyer, his decision to wear a climbing helmet for both take-off and landing speaks for itself. Safety first. Dignity second.

Upon arrival, hire cars were organised, followed by a brief but essential stop at a 24-hour garage for supplies. The main group reached the Orange House just after 22:30, perfectly timed to commence the extended celebrations for Gemma L’s birthday - apparently a week-long affair.

Day 1 – Sella

For most, our introduction to the region was the fantastic crag at Sella, with some nice easy routes to get back into the feel of limestone.  Come evening, a few of us headed into Benidorm for food at the local Taco Bell.  If you’ve never driven in Benidorm, you need to know that they love their roundabouts, a fact that led Vicky to describe Benidorm as “the Craigavon of Spain”.  I’m not sure who should be more offended – Benidorm or Craigavon!

Day 2 – Sierra de Toix

Under blistering heat, teams set off for a day of multipitch climbing. Ashley and Rob embraced some traditional climbing, including Espolón Limaban, a three-star 5a with a memorable 30-metre layback finale. It provided equal parts challenge and satisfaction—depending on one’s tolerance for pump.

The view out to sea from Sierra de Toix

Day 3 – Guadalest 

A great crag with plenty of shade until you climb above the treeline.  It seemed only right that we should all climb the fantastic Irlanda del Norte and then give it 3 stars to up its profile. This day will be remembered for the unfortunate series of rope casualties. Daniel L, Gemma K, and Michael all made unplanned sacrifices to the limestone and needed to cut lengths from the ends of their ropes whilst Richard delivered a moving eulogy straight from the Rockfax guidebook - the closest thing we had to a holy text.

We are gathered here today to remember some very expensive ropes……

Meanwhile, Paul G misplaced his helmet for most of the day, providing an interesting contrast to his in-flight safety strategy.

Day 4 – Rest Day

The washing machine entered its ultra-endurance phase while the group split: half went for a relaxing spa day; the other half opted for a cultural tour of “Beni,” which is essentially the opposite of a spa day.

Maybe Paul K's hardest challenge of the trip

At lunchtime, Paul K ordered what can only be described as the largest paella available in Spain, tackling it with a determined style best summarised as “dogged, with rests.”

A highlight of the day was Richard’s delight at acquiring a €2.50 Carrefour rope bag, proof that budget gear can spark more joy than a full set of tri-cams!

Day 5 – Echo Valley

Ashley identified an excellent crag featuring some outstanding 6a routes. The standout experience was Arandelon, a long flowing slab that climbed beautifully, although half way up, all you could hear was Sir Alec Guinness whispering, “These are not the jugs you are looking for.”

The view across Echo Valley

Day 6 – A Series of Misadventures

Every trip has one day when nothing quite aligns. This was ours.

Richard and Ashley inadvertently took a Magical Mystery de-Tour, extended their outing with a 15-metre traverse past the belay on the 3rd pitch. Upon returning to the car, they discovered it had been run into, causing £700 of damage. There was also the emotional rollercoaster of finding some great crag-swag, only to discover it had been left by Rob the previous day.

Ashley abseiling into Magical Mystery (de)Tour 

Elsewhere, Gemma L and Louisa abseiled confidently into the wrong section of rock and enjoyed an unplanned mini-epic to escape.  Meanwhile, Michael and Gemma K spent most of the day completing a full orienteering course around, near, beside, and occasionally directly past the crag they were meant to be climbing.

Everyone regrouped for a fantastic meal in Finestrat, where stories were exchanged and a competitive debate began on who had the worst day. 

Day 7 – Guadalest and Sella

Most of us returned to Guadalest for a nice easy final day.  However, Michael had other plans and headed off with his most trusted aides to El Goleró in Sella to smash a 7b+ project.

He first climbed the route on top rope to try the moves, then rested before doing his proper send attempt, which he got clean with Gemma K belaying, naturally, because you always send when she’s on the rope! He left it rigged because others wanted to try it, but everyone else could only manage a few moves, so it fell to Michael to climb it again to clean the route.

When he got back on, he realised he was completely wrecked. Peter belayed and took in as much as possible while Michael unclipped the draws on the way up, but at the top Gemma pointed out the problem: on such an overhang, he should’ve also stripped the gear on the way up. Now hanging at the anchor, he was too far from the wall to reach anything.

The only solution? He had to climb the whole thing again, his fourth go, just to rescue his draws. To help, everyone started hauling on the rope while Peter took in slack, which repeatedly swung everyone into a bush. Was this how Michael really climbed his 7b+, being dragged upward by four people on top rope?

Sevan celebrating with Bethani his final day send of Pericana Sense Gana (6b)

In summary, the 2026 Costa Blanca trip delivered everything a climbing holiday should: excellent routes, varied adventures, memorable mishaps, and excellent company. The perfect blend of challenge and humour—just as any good club trip ought to be.  So, same time next year?

Final team photo before heading home

Seastacking in Donegal June 2025

Friday-

After a long drive from Belfast, the midges greeted us in full force. Both Fergus and Peter unfortunately had the elastic on their tent poles go, which lead to learning some creative ways to fix a tent! The group was exhausted, so we decided to go to Leo's Tavern for some pub food! We nestled around a couple of tables, pouring over guidebooks with anticipation of the new climbs awaiting us tomorrow!

Saturday-

Half of the group went to Cruit, an island connected by a small bridge with a golf course and loads of climbing in the friendlier grades. John’s favourite climb here was Bren’s Brunch, an HS with a lovely flake to start and good protection throughout. Fergus was happy to get a few more trad seconds under his belt as well!

While the rock is beautifully grippy, our hands were shredded by the end of the day! The group couldn’t face going back and cooking dinner, so we made an executive decision to go to a tiny chippy in Annagry to speed eat pizza at 9pm.

The other half of the group went seastacking with Iain Miller. They had quite an adventurous day: Kyle achieved two first ascents! The new routes are:

B(CC) Special E2 5b**, Kyle Stewart, Daniel Black 07/06/25 

Face climb, up the middle of the flat wall just right of Armada. Work your way up a few metres until you hit a ledge. Use the pedestal to stepup and left until you reach a good jug. Arrange small gear and attack the good flat holds of the top wall.

Sleepless Hollow HVS 5a **, Kyle Stewart, Daniel Black 07/06/25 

Start 3m left of Davy J nose at small gap between 2protruding blocks from the wall at head height. Climb the wall direct. Good edges make for solid climbing the entire way. Small cams handy for protection.

The rock at Stac an Bhig was a bit chossy, every hold weighted was a bit of a gamble! Despite a few wet shoes, the group had an absolute blast! Vicky’s favourite part was the sketchy down climb they had to do after every climb, and the scramble got harder and harder as the tide came in. Jamie enjoyed the new route Smoking fags & Climbing crags (HS 4a), and had the second lead ascent of Kyle’s new E2! Daniel’s highlight and lowlight of the trip was the same route-America Direct(HVS). There was a terrifying ~30kg rock that was extremely loose, thankfully it stayed in tact!

Sunday-

Even though the weather was not looking very promising, Iain managed to get the second group out for an amazing day of seastacking!

John really enjoyed the VDiff(most argued it was more like an HS) that involved being lowered into an overhanging sea-filled abyss.  

For the non-seastacking group, the route Cave Rave on Cruit was a massive hit! It involved a long traverse just above the waterline, and then a very exposed, but positive ascent over a giant cave. Cave Rave was Richard’s first lead traverse, with Kyle offering key insight into rope management and belaying.

After Cave Rave, the group stopped for lunch. Sadly, the rain came in quite quickly during lunch- we decided to call it a day and start the long journey back to Belfast!

Lake District Easter 2025

Trip participants: Adam W, Caroline S, Josh T, Kyle S, Lisa D-K, Manfei Y, Peter A, Sarah B, Stephanie B, Vicky P, and Vicky W

Trip Report: Manfei Y

Day 1: Racing the Rain on Striding Edge

Our Easter trip this year was based at George Starkey Hut, in the eastern Lake District near Ullswater. Josh and I pulled into the hut bright-ish and early, energized by the crisp morning air and ominous clouds gathering on the horizon. On the way, Josh patiently explained why Good Friday is indeed a good Friday, and I felt thoroughly enlightened (or at least convinced!). With rain forecast to hit hard by the afternoon, we teamed up with Vicky W (who’d arrived the night before and already gone for a run!) and wasted no time — boots were laced, and we launched straight into one of the Lake District’s most iconic scrambles, Striding Edge to the summit of Helvellyn.

Striding Edge. Photo Credit: Manfei

The scramble was thrilling, with gusts of wind whipping across the ridge and every foothold demanding attention (though not for the undefeatable Vicky). Spirits were high despite the looming weather. We reached the summit just as the sky brightened with a touch of sunshine. Were we going to dodge the rain after all? I thought. We snapped some windswept photos and began our descent, just before the first drops began to fall. Turns out, putting on waterproofs had magical powers — the moment we zipped them up, the rain decided to take a break.

Credit: Adam; Photo: Place Fell

Meanwhile, the majority of the group’s journey was less straightforward. A delayed ferry crossing meant they (Adam, Kyle, Lisa, Peter, Sarah, Stephanie and Vicky P) arrived mid-afternoon — right into the pouring rain. Undeterred, they geared up in full waterproofs and managed a damp but determined hike to Place Fell. Back at the hut, Vicky W, Josh, and I began peeling vegetables for Vicky’s iconic sausage, gravy, mashed potatoes, and veggies — a club trip essential.

Day 2: Clouds, Crags, and Courage

The morning brought thick clouds and cool breezes, but spirits weren’t dampened. After conquering the daily crux — parking, the group set off toward Shepherd’s Crag, one of the Lake District’s best-loved climbing spots.

Caroline, Sarah, and Stephaine headed up to Upper Shepherd’s Crag, while Adam, Josh, Peter, and I stayed l in the busy Chamonix Area, hopeful for a shot at the legendary multipitch route Little Chamonix (no luck, as it turned out). Lisa and Vicky P continued to the Brown Slabs Area. Josh and I opted for Donkey's Ears (S) — a two-star, three-pitch route. We bailed on the last pitch, which was damp, but the view was stunning. From our stance, I could see climbers’ bums on Little Chamonix right in my face. I wish I wish!

Credit: Stephanie ; Photos: Shepherd’s Crag

By the afternoon, we all converged at Brown Slabs. It was there that Josh encouraged me to lead my first trad route of the season — Brown Slabs Direct (VDiff), without fully realising what he, as belayer had signed up for. An hour or two? (and several deep breaths and swear words) later, I topped out, with Lisa’s help on anchor building. The clouds finally lifted just before sunset, revealing breathtaking views — sprawling hills and glittering lakes all around. Adam, Peter, and I dashed back to the hut to prep dinner — only for me to discover that Peter is better at cooking rice than I am (disclaimer: only when using a pot). It was a humbling moment.

Day 3: Sunny Sends and Easter Feasts

Finally, a full day of sunshine! Spirits soared as most of the crew made their way to the majestic Castle Rock of Triermain. Caroline and Stephaine ventured off to a different crag — I’ve forgotten the name, but the photos looked nice!

Josh and Kyle set off to tackle the North Crag, taking on a hardcore session on top-rated E2 routes with some bold sky hook-assisted climbing. Meanwhile, the rest of us headed for the more forgiving South Crag, where we all got a taste of Yew Tree Climb (VDiff), Gangway Climb (HVD), and Via Media (S). Despite the good weather, communication at this crag was a real challenge. Shouting was useless, phone calls between the lead climbers and belayers became the norm.

Credit: Peter and Josh ; Photos: Castle Rock of Triermain

Via Media was a standout: exposed, with some bold moves. I seconded Sarah on it and all the way up, I could only think — how on earth did she lead this?! Also, her shiny new cam sets gleamed in the sun like jewellery — beautiful stuff, especially with how solidly they were placed.

We wrapped up the day with a cozy Easter Sunday pub dinner near the hut. Between hearty meals and well-earned pints, we discovered Kyle and Vicky W’s superpower, the Last Crumb Crusaders. No plate was safe under their watch — not a chip or crumb left behind.

Photo: Castle Rock of Triermain; Credit: Adam

While the author of this trip report (Manfei) was not able to attend days three or four of the trip due to other commitments the rest of the trip conquered two other famous lake district scrambles due to ‘dodgy’ conditions. The first of these were sharp edge (grade 1) up Blencathra (which had the most disappointing summit I have personally ever seen (a broken stone circle, no cairn or trig!) which was then followed by a delightful duck race.

The second was Tower Ridge (grade 3) which Kyle successfully managed to find some nice VS crack climbs within.

El Chorro 2025

The Belfast Climbing Club had a very early start on Sunday to make our 7am flight! After some much needed coffee, the group took off to Malaga. The drive to El Chorro was treacherous, with the sat nav leading some of us down a tiny dirt road with a surprise river crossing. After setting down our bags at Finca La Campana, the group wasted no time and set off for Rocabella. With a very short walk-in, many people were able to get 2-3 climbs in before the head-torches came out. One of the group’s favourites was a 5c-Mascha went to the World Cup, it started off steep and pumpy and then turned into a more thoughtful climb.

On Monday, most of the group headed to Serena, the highest part of the ridge of Frontales. Serena was the perfect crag to warm up on, with friendly grades and plenty of sun! Owen and Louisa braved the freezing waters of the hostel pool to cool down after a long day of climbing.

On Tuesday the group headed to Valle de Abdalajis, a slabby crag with more trad-style climbs. Owen managed to squeeze in a quick chimney climb before the rain finally forced the group to retreat back to the hostel.

On Wednesday, Gemma and Louisa decided to set off on a huge muti-pitch. Owen headed to Frontales to knock out Sexo, Hierba y Vertical, a steep, juggy three star route. Conor, Owen, Paul, and Daniel then headed to Escalera Arabe to try another 6b climb, called El Canalillo de la Mari, a challenging corner climb. Michael sent his 7a project, and the group celebrated with a bottle of prosecco!

On Thursday, Michael returned to route after working with a mate a couple of months ago. After sending his 7a project the day before, he had no plans to climb hard that day. But Michael’s Elvis leg didn’t stop him from cruising through the crux of Cita en Sevilla(7B).

The Friday was intended to be a rest day with downpours predicted all day. However, a few of us were up for an early breakfast, and Michael suggested getting just one cheeky climb in the morning before the rain came. Ashley, Mike, and Paul didn't take much convincing, and we drove down to Frontales to try out Putiferio. It was a powerful climb, with big sidepulls and high rock-overs. Tania, Ash, Sarah, and Cillian joined later to try El Virgo de Vicentela, a 6b+ that is in the top 50 climbs in El Chorro! The rain started just before lunchtime, so the group headed back to the hostel, where the group played foosball, and then later started a ping pong competition(with Owen the clear winner!). After some dinner and some wine passed around the table, Tania broke out her famous Piggy PIggy board game.

On Saturday everyone was keen to fit in any climbs they hadn’t managed to send during the week. Ashley and Richard finished off the holiday with Rock me Amadeus. It started with a tricky undercling to then pull-up over a slightly overhung rock face. Ash and Conor finished the holiday with Edelweiss(4c), a super-exposed angeled rib. While the grade was friendly, it was sparsely bolted and quite airy at the top! When it was looking like the rain was going to start, the group packed it in and headed back to the hostel for some well deserved pizza!

The day the club left was bittersweet. It was pouring rain, so at least we weren’t missing out on perfect climbing weather! It was hard to say goodbye to El Chorro, but the good times had throughout our journey will stick with all of us!

BCC Trip Dates 2024-2025

A Tale of Two Trips – Inishowen 2024

Trip Participants: Ash O’Brien, John Lyster, Matthew Campbell, Richard Mott and Steph Buijs

Happy Camping! Photo Credit: AO’B

Initially, the 2024 Inishowen trip was planned for the late August bank holiday weekend, but in line with much of the summer, the forecast was rotten and with excuses as weak as “I don’t want to be washed into the sea and die”, numbers quickly diminished.  Eventually, just Ash and I headed up on the Saturday night with the hope of a few dry hours on the Sunday.  The campsite did not disappoint – it was quite and secluded, with the noise of the waves crashing on the rocks below only drowned out by the rain hammering down on the tents!

The following day brought the forecasted dry weather, and we handed over to Dunmore Head as it is “the most popular crag in Inishowen, owing to its convenience and the huge concentration of routes at all grades, some of which are excellent”.  The first issue was getting to the crag, which can be seen from the road, but is protected by 200m of waist high brambles.  There is a path, but it takes some finding.

At the start of Catatra Crack.  A bit of gardening required! Photo Credit AO’B

Having found the crag, the next problem was that we had failed to bring a strimmer, pressure washer and wire brushes.  Overgrown would be an understatement, not helped by everything being soaking from serval days of heavy rain.

We started on Catatra Crack, which was quite a nice V.Diff with anchor stakes at the top.  We then moved to Dusty Mayday, which was very much not a V.Diff (read UKC before you try a new route)!  The final route on that slab was OXO in October, a nice S, just very overgrown at the top.  With the rain due to come in, and having seen enough of dolphins hunting in the bay, we called it a day.  The highlight was that both of us picked up our first ‘crag swag’, which proves we weren’t the first people to climb there recently, despite the vegetation!

A revised Inishowen trip was then planned for 7-8 September, as the weather forecast looked to be better.  On the Saturday morning, John, Steph, Matthew, Ash and I headed straight for Malin Head with the aim of tackling The Cutting Edge, a 3-star 5 pitch V.Diff.

Stunning photos from the day at Malin Head. Photo credits: A O’B, JL, and SB

Weather was absolutely stunning, possibly the best day of the year, and The Cutting Edge did not disappoint – it’s a 3-star route for a reason.  John and I climbed first taking it in turn to lead, with Matthew, Steph and Ash close behind us climbing as a three.  After the third pitch there was some abseil tat which had been placed to avoid a rather unpleasant and unprotected scramble down to the start of the next pitch.  The ropes where in good order, but the carabiner had seen better days, so John donated one of his to the noble cause.  Matthew didn’t like the look of John’s carabiner, so donated a second.  Consider this our contribution to the Colmcille Climbing Club!

At sunset we all headed to the campsite to pitch tents before heading to the pub.  It was at this point that we discovered that we were sharing the campsite with a crowd that were clearly intent on partying hard.  With tents up, we headed into Culdaff to eat, drink and swap stories of the day’s daring deeds.   I can personally endorse the quality of the Guinness in the Culdaff Arms. 

Returning to the campsite at midnight, we found the vodka-fueled part only just getting started.  We headed to our tents, but I don’t think anyone got to sleep before 4.30 am.  Annoyance at being kept awake was tempered slightly by being in earshot of the “I don’t want to be your f***ing girlfriend” conversation at 4 am! Ahhh, young love…..

Richard on Novice Outing. Photo Credit: SB

The following morning, Ash and Matthew headed back to Belfast, leaving Steph, John and me to find something else worth climbing.  With the vegetation at Dunmore Head and apparent access issues at Brazil Rock, we opted to head South to Port a Doris.  It was about a 20 min walk in but was well worth the effort.  The crag forms two sides of a small, secluded cove with routes from Diff to HVS.  We climbed Novice Outing as a three, but by this stage the forecasted rain had made an appearance, so we headed on home.

Inishowen has some great potential.  The campsite is great (if you don’t have to share it) and there is some phenomenal climbing at Malin Head, where you could easily spend several days.  I really liked Port a Doris, and if you didn’t mind carrying all your gear in, you could potentially camp on the beach in the secluded cove without being disturbed by anyone.  Let’s get an Inishowen trip in the diary for next summer and hope for some decent weather!