Friday-
After a long drive from Belfast, the midges greeted us in full force. Both Fergus and Peter unfortunately had the elastic on their tent poles go, which lead to learning some creative ways to fix a tent! The group was exhausted, so we decided to go to Leo's Tavern for some pub food! We nestled around a couple of tables, pouring over guidebooks with anticipation of the new climbs awaiting us tomorrow!
Saturday-
Half of the group went to Cruit, an island connected by a small bridge with a golf course and loads of climbing in the friendlier grades. John’s favourite climb here was Bren’s Brunch, an HS with a lovely flake to start and good protection throughout. Fergus was happy to get a few more trad seconds under his belt as well!
While the rock is beautifully grippy, our hands were shredded by the end of the day! The group couldn’t face going back and cooking dinner, so we made an executive decision to go to a tiny chippy in Annagry to speed eat pizza at 9pm.
The other half of the group went seastacking with Iain Miller. They had quite an adventurous day: Kyle achieved two first ascents! The new routes are:
B(CC) Special E2 5b**, Kyle Stewart, Daniel Black 07/06/25
Face climb, up the middle of the flat wall just right of Armada. Work your way up a few metres until you hit a ledge. Use the pedestal to stepup and left until you reach a good jug. Arrange small gear and attack the good flat holds of the top wall.
Sleepless Hollow HVS 5a **, Kyle Stewart, Daniel Black 07/06/25
Start 3m left of Davy J nose at small gap between 2protruding blocks from the wall at head height. Climb the wall direct. Good edges make for solid climbing the entire way. Small cams handy for protection.
The rock at Stac an Bhig was a bit chossy, every hold weighted was a bit of a gamble! Despite a few wet shoes, the group had an absolute blast! Vicky’s favourite part was the sketchy down climb they had to do after every climb, and the scramble got harder and harder as the tide came in. Jamie enjoyed the new route Smoking fags & Climbing crags (HS 4a), and had the second lead ascent of Kyle’s new E2! Daniel’s highlight and lowlight of the trip was the same route-America Direct(HVS). There was a terrifying ~30kg rock that was extremely loose, thankfully it stayed in tact!
Sunday-
Even though the weather was not looking very promising, Iain managed to get the second group out for an amazing day of seastacking!
John really enjoyed the VDiff(most argued it was more like an HS) that involved being lowered into an overhanging sea-filled abyss.
For the non-seastacking group, the route Cave Rave on Cruit was a massive hit! It involved a long traverse just above the waterline, and then a very exposed, but positive ascent over a giant cave. Cave Rave was Richard’s first lead traverse, with Kyle offering key insight into rope management and belaying.
After Cave Rave, the group stopped for lunch. Sadly, the rain came in quite quickly during lunch- we decided to call it a day and start the long journey back to Belfast!
