No trip of this size can run completely smoothly, and the first problem with this one was trying to get an old person to operate Google forms, documents and sheets. After several hours of “I still don’t have access” messages, the registration was up and running almost seamlessly, with 32 club members eventually signing up.
The move to the Island was staged over 2 days, with the early group of Richard, Keelan, Andrew and Gemma taking the conventional route of the ferry, whilst Conor and Michael opted for the higher-end option of being personally delivered to the island courtesy of Paul and his catamaran. Some great first day climbing was had at the walk-in crags of Ballai Mhachaire na nGall and Inland Crag.
Arriving in style courtesy of Paul and his catamaran
Day 2 saw the very first outing of the new club abseil rope which was set-up at Gripple Wall, with a queue of people looking to do the Gola classics of Pride of Gola and Maid of Gola. Unfortunately, our time there was cut short, as Lisa reported from the bottom of the crag that a rising tide combined with a large swell was making conditions at the belay difficult. In hindsight, what was up to Lisa’s knees would have only been up to everyone else’s ankles, but none the less, the decision was made to abandon the sea cliffs and head to the Inland crag (for those that hadn’t been there the day before) or to the Easter Wall.
Weathered Window at the Inland Crag - HS in the guide book, now VS 4b on UKC.
Due to a distinct lack of firewood, team ‘beach bonfire’ had to go into scavenging mode that night and collect what driftwood we could from the beach. It doesn’t matter whose stupid idea it was to roll a massive log from one end of the beach to the other (it was Steven), but fortunately, Alan was on hand with clear “this is how we move 1 ton steel beams” instructions, and with the use of various slings and ropes, we managed to at least get the end hanging over the fire.
Teamwork makes the dream work!
And if you’re wondering who brings a chainsaw on a climbing trip, the answer is Paul, and we were all very grateful for this unusual addition to his trad-rack! The evening also brought the revelation from Michael that he believes that “tuna is a shifty fish”, a comment made whilst passing around his famous loaf of cheese. Lovers of dairy products will be glad to know that Michael rarely travels without cheese.
Paul has developed a very particular set of skills…..
With a later high tide, Day 3 brought a return to the sea cliffs. Run of the Arrow was on many people’s tick-lists, but unfortunately a family of cormorants had set-up home on what was clearly their favourite route as well! Maybe next year. There was plenty of other climbing available on the Main Wall, where most of the club based themselves for the day in absolute baking sunshine. From the top of Main Wall there were also great views of Gemma and Andrew climbing really hard stuff across the water at Twin Cave Buttress. One of the highlights of the day was being able to use the skills acquired on the recent club-sponsored self-rescue course to retrieve a stuck climber – you never know when these skills will come in handy. A special mention is also required here for Richard G and Ewan for being possibly the first people in club history to bake bread whilst on a climbing trip. Apparently, it was epic!
Lisa making sure the sea is far enough away from the belay at Gripple Wall
Day 4 was the hottest day of the weekend, making it almost too warm to climb (what else do you expect in Donegal?), but as luck would have it, there was a free music festival on the Island. Ash and Robyn were mistaken for some minor celebrity musicians and were very happy to embrace this new-found celebrity status. At least they didn’t abuse this position by jumping the queue for the ferry – unlike the actual musicians!
Once again, Gola delivered. Great weather, great craic and great climbing, with several of the club’s experienced sport climbers including Adam, Vicky, Richard G and Catriona getting their first trad leads. Legislator has been something of a rite of passage for many BCC members over the years!
I’m looking forward to next year already….
The end of one trip, but looking forward to the next.