Free parking is available at all crags but with very limited numbers of spaces (Please do not park on the roadside!)
Download this guide here: https: //drive.google.com/file/d/1wcAQMo6gbi8868UmOa_m51z1fIRqnBLK/view?usp=sharing
During his time in lockdown, Ian Rea has made some updates and added routes to the current Mournes guidebook that is available, of which the Blue Lough crag has had the biggest improvement. The link below is a guide to this update and can be downloaded as well:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1h_x63ZNOjcHS644TDm_HJV9ykNvOl7VO/view?usp=sharing
Binnian Tors
Points to Note on the Crag: On the summit. Rock is largely very solid here, but this is a mountain crag so rock may more be flaky/scrittley in places than other areas. It is a great spot to spend a long day and is home to some mega classics.
Grade Range: Diff – E8
No. of Routes: 161
Walk in: 1.5 hours, uphill. Multiple car parks on carrick little track costing £3
Recommended route: D – North Route, VD – Sennapod Corner, S – Kimmage Groove, HS – Rankin’s Crack, VS – Screamers, HVS – Pete’s Delight, E1 – Electra/Penguin on Newcastle Beach, E2 – True Lies, E3 – Spectre, E4 – I am not Spiderman, E5 – The Quick and the Dead, E6 – Uncharted Territory, E7 – Thrill Issues of the Jellyman, E8 – Crystal Methods
Slieve Lamagan
Points to Note on the Crag: It has one of the best multi-pitches in the Mournes - FM. Grade Range: VD - E1 (but mostly VD to S)
No. of Routes: 17
Walk in: 1 hour. Multiple car parks on carrick little track costing £3
Recommended route: VD - FM. VS - Sundance.
Lower Cove
Points to note on the crag: One of the most popular crags in the Mournes, and deservedly so. A bit of a sun trap and generally dries fast. The four corners of Lower Cove are further apart than you think, so plan the order of your routes well!
Grade Range: Diff – E8
No. of Routes: 113
Walk in: 1 hour. Multiple car parks on carrick little track costing £3
Recommended Routes: VD – Tyro, S – Brewer’s Gloom, HS - First Corner, VS - Kram, HVS – Gynocrat, E1 - The Great Treacle Sponge Robbery, E2 - Meat Grinder/Les Jeunes Filles en Jupes d’Été, E3 – Maya, E4 – Infidels, E5 – 5th Ape
Slieve Beg
Points to note on the crag: A long approach but well worth the effort for the classics mentioned below. This is a mountain crag so take care for loose rock, and steep heathery top-outs.
Grade Range: Diff - E4
No. of Routes: 60
Walk in: 1.5 hours, would recommend approaching from Trassey/Meelmore lodge (parking available for £4) as it has the least height gain.
Recommended: VD - Devil’s Rib, VS -Poetic Justice, HVS - Parallel Lines/Mourne Maggie, E1 - The Third Man, E2 - Satanic Majesty, E3 - Burden of Dreams, E4 - Alchemy
Annalong Buttress
Points to Note on the crag: Lots of off-vertical rounded cracks and slabs, with decent gear. Grade Range: Diff - E2
No. of Routes: 24
Walk in: 1 hour. There are also some recently bolted routes in the quarry on the way (needs trad gear for anchors).
Recommended routes: S - Spanish Flea, VS -Thin Crack, HVS – Lacuna
Bearnagh Tors
Points to Note on the Crag: On the summit. The tors on Bearnagh have some of the best views in the Mournes!
Grade Range: D to E7
No. of Routes: 49
Walk in: 1.5 hours. Uphill all the way. Parking available at Meelmore lodge for £4
Recommended routes: D - Doan View, VD - Hot Cakes, S - Summit Sheugh, HS – Kicking Horse, VS – Lady Rose, HVS - Wounded Knee, E1 - Voss, E2 – Edelweiss, E3 – Solitary Standing, E4 – The Rage of Cardinal Richelieu, E5 – Torture Chamber, E6 - Idlewild, E7 - Ready to Rumble
Bearnagh Slabs
Points to Note on the Crag: All of the routes are multi-pitch on this crag. Most of the routes are in the easier grades, with Crooked Chimney extra highly recommended. 60m half ropes will just about reach the bottom (do with caution!).
Grade Range: V Diff - E3
No. of Routes: 14
Walk in: 1 hr. Parking available at Meelmore lodge for £4
Recommended routes: VD - Grand Central, S - Hypothesis, HS - Crooked Chimney, VS - Peter De Bernac
Spellack
Points to Note on the Crag: If climbing at Cabin Cruise buttress check the descent before committing to a climb.
Grade Range: D to E7
No. of Routes: 74
Walk in: 30 mins to Forest View buttress, longer to others. Parking available at Meelmore Lodge (£4).
Recommended routes: VD - Spellack Chimney, S - White Walls, HVS - Blowin’ in the Wind, E1 - Cabin Cruise, E2 - Cool for Cats, E4 – Warhorse
Hen Mountain
Points to Note on the Crag: Hen is known for its slabby routes with sparse gear. Dries fast and often windy.
Grade Range: M (moderate) - E6
No. of Routes: 89
Walk in: 20 mins (uphill!)
Recommended route: D - Escalator, VD – Simplicity, S - Fingerbowl, HS - Yeni Gol, VS - Athene, HVS - Superbowl, E1 - 73 Main street E2 - King of the Mountain, E3 - Journey into life
Pigeon Rock
Points to Note on the Crag: Descent for almost all the routes is by abseil. If climbing on left hand buttress, a 60m abseil will reach the ground from ab station on top of Virgo. Currently no anchors in place on top of Pog Precipice. Morning sun only.
Grade Range: S - E5
No. of Routes: 55
Walk in: 20 mins (uphill!)
Recommended Routes: S - Class Distinction, HS – Falcon, VS – Virgo, HVS – Taurus, E1 - Phantoms, E2 - Penny Black, E4 – North by Northwest, E5 - X-Ray
Eagle Mountain
Points to Note on the Crag: Standard walk in is from the Sandy Brae (aka the campsite!). The descent from the main crag is a long walk or an old peg. Routes can be long - up to 95 m and are a mixture of single and multi-pitch. North facing and generally dirty.
Grade Range: VD - E8
No. of Routes: 31
Walk in: 1.5 hours
Recommended routes: VD - 1 Fanta, VS - Surplomb Sundae, E1 - Lassara Grooves, E2 - Cookstown Cultchy, E7 - The Lost Forgotten, E8 - Shadow Rider
Blue Lough Buttress
Points to Note on the Crag: Very recently cleaned thanks to Ian Rea! Recommended to descend via abseil. Check out the link above for Ian’s updates in addition to the routes in the published guide.
Grade Range: VD – E4
No. of Routes: 38
Walk in: 45 mins
Recommended routes: S - Diploma, VS – Banner Direct, HVS – Plus Gas, E1 - Vertebrae
WILD CARD - Buzzards Roost - The Sheugh **** ‘Severe’ - For the cavers. Adventurous nonsense.