The New Committee is in

Congratulations to our new committee! This has to be the biggest I've seen the committee so far! Probably due to Vicky's brilliant idea to have multiple people able to do a single committee roles!

President - Mike McCracken
Secretary - Eva Grew
Treasurer - Owen L
Clothing Secretary - Peter Reid
Cottage Secretary - Peter Adamson
Membership Secretary (Senior) - Owen L
Membership Secretary - Steve Grew
Meets Secretary (Senior) - Vicky Ward
Meets Secretary - John Lyster
Social Secretary (Senior) - Mags Oleszek
Social Secretary - Tania Logan
Webmaster - Jamie Roberts
Ordinary member - Aimee Smith
Ordinary member - Josh Taujanskas
Ordinary member - Kyle Stewart
Ordinary member - Rob Broome
Ordinary member - Tony Holdsworth

Here's to another great year for the BCC!!!

Club times switching around!

Simple enough! We will now be hosting our Ozone sessions on Tuesdays from 1900 and at Boulder world on Thursdays from 1900 instead of the other way around!

Happy climbing!!!

Gola Trip Report 2023

By Vicky Ward 

Header Photo Credit: Callum

Trip Participants: Chris Craig, Vicky Ward, Kyle Stewart, Lisa Davison-Kernan, Paul Kelly, Peter Adamson, Josh Taujanskas, Callum Young, Mike McCracken, Rob Broome and Paul Grattage

The club’s now near annual pilgrimage to Gola Island just off the coast of Donegal is always a highly anticipated trip.  With its gorgeous pink granite, beautiful scenery and general lack of people it’s always a much needed mental reset.  However, this time the weather did not so much play ball. This was a triple dropper cloud forecast.  Nevertheless with an “ok” weather forecast due on the first full day of the trip a group of the keener adventurers (or those with nothing better to do) decided to head off anyways.  

Our party arrived in batches on Wednesday 12th with varying success in avoiding planned traffic jams - 1 participant even managed to squeeze in a mini-mountain race on the way.  Those that arrived early managed to get in a successful afternoon of cragging at the inland crag ticking off such routes as Days of Wine & Roses (E1 5b), Weathered Window (VS 4b) and Corner Boy (HS 4b) with one of our party also successfully ticking of their first trad lead on Legislator (D).  Climbing occurred before and after dinner. With the daylight beginning to come to an end Chris treated us all to a fire complete with professionally made dry stone walls.

Photo Credit: Callum

We woke up on the second day with a tiny bit more fear of our holiday coming to a premature end - all night we had heard the heavy rain on our tents - but miraculously we woke up to dry grass but more importantly dry rocks (for safety) and blue skies (for photos). With this in mind we all hurried our breakfast in order to make the most of the weather window but only after taking an appropriate amount of time to admire Paul K’s very heavy coolbox which was genuinely keeping his full-fat milk fridge cold. No UHT or milk powder for Paul K.  

Josh on Pride of Gola. Photo Credit: Callum

The main goal for most of our party was to head to Gripple wall and conquer the classics of the Pride of Gola (S 4a) and Maid of Gola (HS 4b). These were ticked off efficiently and promptly which allowed the entire group to head off and congregate at main crag.  At some stage Chris left the island.  Utilising the rather “bold” abseil set up by Peter and Paul K as a group we climbed Run of the Arrow (VS 4b), Bull Root (HVS 5a), Snow Desert (HS 4b) and Kyle did some pumpy E4 (he didn’t log it on UKC so it wasn’t stalkable for this trip report).

Kyle on some E4. Photo Credit: Peter

While we were congratulating ourselves and Gola on its fine weather and the quantity of climbing done a sight was seen on the horizon - it was a catamaran skipping across the waves into the bay.  Half an hour later a whatsapp message was received which announced the arrival of Paul G to the island complete with two kayaks and a heap of firewood.  Mike and Callum headed back to the camp to meet Paul G in order to take him off for some evening climbing on Easter Crag.

Paul contemplating the bold step round to Run of the Arrow. Photo Credit: Peter

With everybody’s arms tired we all headed back to camp for an evening meal.  However, the infamous Gola midges decided to join the party.  As these party crashers arrived we all departed the central campsite to go kayaking in the bay (Paul G & Kyle), fetch water (Lisa & Vicky) or make FIRE (the rest).

Unfortunately the day before Chris had given us the ominous news that Sabba (the ferryman) had a wedding on Friday evening and thus had every intention of being out of action on Friday afternoon through to late Saturday.  As a group we therefore had to make the bold decision between:

1. Leaving Gola 2 days earlier than planned - a lot of faff for 48 hours only!

2. Staying on Gola and potentially being trapped in a triple dropper weather forecast in a tent with no means of escape

With sadness, we did decide on Option A - we had had such an amazingly fantastic 2 days.  This trip to Gola was very short but very sweet.  We got possibly the only 2 dry days in July. That was also possibly the fastest ferry trip ever as Sabba gunned it back to the mainland to get back to his pre-wedding pint.  

Photo Credit: Paul

Wales Easter Trip Report 2023

By Vicky Ward

Trip Participants: Rob, Conor, Peter, Paul, Owen, Lisa, Tony, Kyle and Vicky 

Day 1

Booking a boat at 7am always seems like a good idea at the time – a WHOLE day climbing at Gogarth?  Sounds great.

However, the issue with a 7am boat is the 3-4am start. Reality not so great.

Nevertheless we all managed to pull ourselves out of bed and our drivers heroically battled through a caffeine infected haze to Dublin and on to Holyhead. At Holyhead we split into our two groups: those heading off to the Gogarth cliffs and those sticking to the closer Holyhead Mountain.

The Holyhead mountain group enjoyed a range of single pitches on clean rock while Vicky got stuck in the Elephant’s Arse.

A recurrent theme of this trip was the joy of the traverse.  Climbing is generally assumed to be an upward sport but on this trip we defied to defy gravity and instead decided to explore movement within the horizontal plane.  A traverse a day keeps the doctor away after all.  So with this in mind Kyle, Lisa went off to do the classic Dream of white horses (HVS).  After many false starts they abseiled down to start their mainly across ascent in the glorious atmosphere of Gogarth. 

As the Holyhead Mountain people got back to the cars first they did some quick maths and reckoned that the gaining of one person in their car equated to 3-4 (maybe 5?) extra trad bags in the other car. 

With all the climbing done for the day we headed back to our accommodation, the Oread Mountaineering Club Hut, on the slopes of Snowdon for a late dinner at 9.30PM.  It was a long day.

Lisa on Dream of White Horses at Gogarth

Day 2

After a bit of a well deserved lie in we decided to head to Tremadog for the day.  Also easily the most mispronounced welsh name from our group. 

The majority of the group attempted to climb at the heaving Craig Bwlch y Moch. Kyle/Tony did a multipitch weaving its way through maybe a VS, maybe an E2, who knows?  Owen/Peter/Rob/Conor/Paul did some climbing somewhere (Oberon?).  Meanwhile Vicky/Lisa headed off to do the route “Poor Man’s Peuterey” in order to achieve Lisa’s health goals of a traverse a day. 

Having met back up at the café for pasties and coffees we all heading to the delightful single pitch crag of Craig Pant Ifan which felt a bit of a hidden gem (despite the 15minute steep steep steep approach).

With all the climbing done for the day we headed back to our accommodation, the Oread Mountaineering Club Hut, on the slopes of Snowdon for a late dinner at 9.45PM.  It was a long day.

Lisa on Spiral Staircase at Dinas Cromlech

Day 3

It seemed like an enthusiastic idea to go to Dinas Cromlech (beside Pen y Pass) on Easter Saturday but we are ambitious.  After a few trips up and down the pass we finally completely legitimately parked (albeit bay rather than parallel) within the lines.  As we observed throughout the day from our position high on the crag, other parkers started to follow our efficient lead – TREND SETTERS.

We paired off into our climbing pairs with Kyle/Vicky tackling Left Wall (E2)/Sabre Cut (VS); Owen/Tony conquering Cemetery Gates (E1)/Noah’s Warning (VS); and Paul/Peter weaving up Dives (VS).  Meanwhile, the remaining trio, Lia/Rob/Conor sauntered across Spiral Staircase (Vdiff) as they had to go sideways for Lisa’s health after all.

With all the climbing done for the day we headed back to our accommodation, the Oread Mountaineering Club Hut, on the slopes of Snowdon for a late dinner at 8.00PM.  It was a medium-long day.

Day 4

On the last day a betrayal occurred.  Owen and Vicky decided to go running and scrambling instead -the horror of it all! Starting at Pen-y-pass they went up snowdon via crib goch back down the Snowdon ranger for a civilized lunch in Rhyd Ddu before heading back up to do Nantle Ridge and get lost in a forest.  Getting lost is adequate punishment for running on a climbing trip.

Meanwhile the rest of the group in a much more civilized manner headed to Clogwyn Cyrau for as many single pitch routes they could squeeze in in a day.  Lisa ensured she got her traverse or the world might have fallen in.

We ended the day in a pub having a meal at a reasonable time (7.15PM!) what a pleasant change!

Rob, Conor, Kyle and Lisa at Clogwyn Cyrau

 Day 5

It rained.  A lot.  We went to a café in Llanberis and went home.  The End

Sligo Scrambling Trip Report

'It's A Dangerous Business, Frodo, Going Out Your Door. You Step Onto The Road, And If You Don't Keep Your Feet, There's No Knowing Where You Might Be Swept Off To' ― J.R.R. Tolkien

By Vicky Ward and Kyle Stewart (King’s mountain Section)

Attendees: Vicky Ward, Kyle Stewart, Josh Taujanskas, Peter Adamson, Paul Kelly, Paul Grattage, Tony Holdsworth, Magdalena Oleszek and Lukasz Szadowiak

Early on Saturday morning the ominous message appeared in the group chat for the Sligo Trip: “Red sky in the morning shepherd’s warning”.  I double checked the weather forecast, and it all still seemed good, but I packed an extra pair of gloves and dug in the cupboard for my waterproof trousers.  Nothing can go wrong if you have waterproof trousers.

I met Peter and Paul at 7.30am at Paul’s house before heading on via Josh’s to get to Kyle’s to swap cars and then on to Sprucefield to decant half our passengers into the other Paul’s car.  Who doesn’t love some good car faff? Three hours later we all met up at Glencar Lough to redistribute more passengers amongst different cars to ferry onto the “community house” at the start of the King’s mountain hike. Yay more car faff.  At this stage Peter’s car count for the trip was on 4.

After peering through all the windows and weighing up the odds that this “community house” was indeed the recommended car parking spot for king’s mountain and we weren’t trespassing on a local’s driveway we headed off up the mountain. At the bottom of the steep slope we split into our two groups -one heading for Pinnacle Gully and the other King’s Gully.

----------

King’s Mountain

After keenly debating who would carry the 2 abseil ropes we brought and who would be peeling & chopping apples for dessert later (odd compromises) a party of Kyle, Tony, Mags, Peter, Paul K and Josh set off. After navigating parking spaces and probably not trespassing through a sheep field we left our pinnacle gully peers at the base of the mountain and attacked the grassy slope. After enduring burning calves and quads for 30 minutes (don’t skip leg day) we skirted around the top slopes of the mountain to realise we had went a little too far. Brief navigation meeting between Tony and Kyle sent the team back in the right direction to the start. We found a mini cave/gully that Kyle enthusiastically jumped into as a warm up to the main event. A few minutes later and we found ourselves at the gates of Mordor (Kings Mountain) ready to (not) destroy the one master (abseil) ring. We decided to harness and helm up at this point in preparation of depths below.

The King’s Mountain Team

Photo Credit: Peter

A massive rock crevice looking almost carved by men enshrouded us as our fellowship delved deep into the gully. After a very enjoyable scramble down some scree slopes and up some small pinnacle we came to our first abseil. After chatting to another group of walkers that found themselves in the realms of fantasy caves Tony and Kyle Sorted the ropes and secured the abseil. Tony bravely abseiled first into the abyss followed by the rest of our clan. Kyle pulled through and coiled the rope. More scrambling and around and we managed to climb out into a plateau of sunlight were we had our Elven bread and drank from our water skins. Back into the depths we travelled for a final push until we reached our final challenge and abseil. Tying the ropes together we abseiled to freedom into beautiful blue skies. Back down a steep grass slope we walked (/bum slid) back to the point our groups had separated earlier in the day. Looking back we seen (and heard *cough* vicky) the Pinnacle Gully crew making a quick run down the grassy switch back paths. 10 minutes later not trespassing though some fields, we landed back at the cars to end a beautiful adventure. 

One of the Abseils

Photo Credit: Peter

Kyle claiming this was just a hike

Photo Credit: Kyle

Pinnacle Gully

The information online for the pinnacle gully was sparse.  As was the info in the scrambling guide book.  However, the directions to head for the “phallic-shaped pinnacle” turned out to be more than sufficient. After making our way across a surprisingly flowy scree slope we reached the base of the pillar. 

I looked up at the pinnacle.  It looked steep and a bit loose but the stairway seemed obvious…it only deserved a paragraph in the guidebook and there was limited info online…it couldn’t be hard…right?  I ponderously started making my way up; I jiggled a hold, it came loose, I chucked it down safely and I repeated this process a few times.  After a few meters, I decided to down climb.  Sitting down I re-found the guidebook, “take the left gully beyond the pillar” ah that explained matters somewhat. 

I walked round the pillar and stared up – yes this looked more doable.  I started the ascent again.  There seemed to be some quite big moves for a scramble, some quite big high feet but I was not perturbed until I came to the tat.  This was clearly “bailing tat”.  I looked up either side of me – 2 steep walls with zero obvious holds.  This was in no definition of the word scrambling territory.  However, unlike the previous inhabitants of this predicament, I had no rope or gear.  This was a more precarious downclimb than I would have perhaps liked. I chucked my bag in order to aid my balance.  I mournfully watched as Paul missed the catch and it merrily bounced its way down the steep slopes below.   

One of the Incorrect Pinnacle Gully Approaches

Photo Credit: Lukasz

After Paul the hero went to retrieve my bag I decided that the only sensible thing to do now was have lunch.  Miraculously my phone had survived the descent down the rocky slope unscathed.  The same can not be said for my lunch (nor Paul’s trousers).

Undeterred we walked a little bit further round the mountain and all became obvious.  There was a delightful, friendly, interesting walkway through a cavernous gully.  Now didn’t I feel a bit silly. 

Friendly Pinnacle Gully

Photo Credit: Lukasz

Popping out the gully we then proceeded to go on a delightful hike around the plateau visiting Benbulben and King’s mountain summit while Paul’s trousers gradually became more and more ripped. The skies were clear and the views fantastic.  We found our way back to the carpark where Mags enquired whether Paul had been attacked by a bear.

 —------

We ended the day after more car faff and a café stop in the Benwiskin Hostel.  We shared a communal meal and played some games.  For some reason the king’s mountain lot were very aggressive on whose job it was to peel apples. Great craic in all.

The next day we decided to head to Benwiskin – just a 5 minute drive from the hostel.  Kyle led the way striding up the forest path to reach the steep slopes.  The pace of the day was bold. The guidebook had put (steep) in the description.  This was justified.  We skirted the forest to reach the spectacular ridge of Benwiskin.  I’m not sure whether it would have qualified as a rock scramble but it was at least a grade 1 grass scramble in my eyes; my calves hurt.  We walked along the ridge as a group past the wonderous scenery of the cliffs of Benwiskin.  The cauldron in particular was spectacular. 

We descended the mountain via a road which was “definitely not trespassing” looking out for Diarmuid and Grainne’s cave as this was a listed optional extra for this hike.  Having reached the base of the valley again we finally caught sight of the ginormous cave above.  For some reason the steep grass slope up there didn’t seem to tempt anyone. 

Benwiskin

Photo Credit: Lukasz

We all said our emotional goodbyes in the car park before heading back to our respective homes with great car faff to be had. It was a wonderful trip. The waterproof trousers were not required.

Mournes Litter Collection

On 27th August 2022 we had a litter pick up in the Annalong Valley in the Mourne Mountains. Mournes Heritage Trust supported us with litter pickers, and staff member Aaron joined us for the walk. It was a beautiful day and we had a very relaxed, enjoyable walk whilst we helped make the Mournes a little cleaner.

Aimee, Vicky, Owen and Lisa in the Annalong Valley

Mourne Climb Fest Update

Folks,

Just another reminder of the Mourne Climbfest this weekend. We will be based at Sloan’s farm, campsite which is being setup for this event (water, toilets and barn for socialising will be provided). The campsite is located here. https://goo.gl/maps/dVoH7F7ZF5GFARVH6
On the day registration at the campsite will take place from 6pm onwards this Friday.

On the day camping will be £7. If you book in advance (before Friday 9am) you will get it for the cheaper rate of £5.

We will be climbing both Saturday and Sunday. On Saturday we will be meeting at Carricklittle carpark approx 9:30am and aiming to be at Lower Cove for about 10:30am. We’ll climb for most of the day and probably be back at the campsite for an evening of firepit socialising and giant chess from 7pm. Carricklittle car park is located here https://goo.gl/maps/gD55BRYscia9N3e27

On Sunday we will be meeting at Trassey track carpark at 9:30am (alternative is Meelmore lodge if Trassey is full). Walk in to Spellack crag and climbing from approximately 10:15am onwards.
Looking forward to seeing you there.

BCC Committee

Folks, see below for upcoming trips and save the dates. If you are interested in coming and have any questions feel free to send us an email :)

16th - 18th April - Easter trip BCC Fairhead Session

May– 29th April to 2nd May Colmcille Climbfest, Maghery, Donegal.

3rd - 6th June– Dal Riada/Mountaineering Ireland Fairhead Climbing weekend

25th and 26th June - Mourne Climb Fest

9th until the 16th July– Owey Island (accommodation still to be confirmed)

20th-21st August – BCC Muckross Trip Donegal

3rd to 5th September Burren Meet

Moorhill Quarry March 22

Thanks to all who came out to Moorhill Quarry last weekend. Good session and many routes climbed. We soon warmed up and the sun even appeared for a bit. Old hands were getting back into the swing of things and newer faces were getting some of their first trad climbs/leads/abseils in. There were also some impressive bat-hangs on display. Hopefully get a few more sessions like this over the next few months.

2022 Membership Year

Intro

Whilst the evenings may be darkening there’s certainly not anything dark about this time of year. Mountaineering Ireland has once again allowed early sign up so that you get more bang for your buck. Likewise, Belfast Climbing Club has matched that offer and if you sign up now you’ll get 1 year, 1 month and 7 days for the price of 12 months 0 days (expiries on 31/10/2022). Bargain. As the honest chap I am, I didn’t calculate that, I had to google it.

If that sounds better than a buy one get one free on a family pack of Tayto and you just want to sign up, click the button below. If you’re unsure and want more details? Read on.

SIGN ME UP!

What’s in it for you?

Well, aside from the free belays, banter and copious uses of the word ‘nice’, ‘go on’ and ‘you’ve got this’ whilst you’re twisting your hips in ways you never felt possible, we feel that we’ve quite a lot to offer:

Belfast Climbing Club Benefits

• Access to a large (we had the strongest member count ever this year!), varied and friendly community of climbers of all abilities and backgrounds

• Belfast Climbing Club branded clothing (and umbrellas, if you want, I got one)

• You joining us on our, various, exciting trips

• Access to Henry’s Cottage in the Mournes at a discounted rate for members (£5 pmpn)

• Member only WhatsApp group

• A club backed by an enthusiastic member first committee (look at those smiles!)

• Stickers for your car, helmet, notebook, you name it

Mountaineering Ireland Benefits

• The Irish Mountain Log, delivered by post to your home address

• Discounts in all good outdoor shops and a variety of other related retailers

• Civil Liability and Limited Personal Accident cover insurance policy

• A personalised membership card

• A committed staff team to provide advice and information

• Access to training schemes and awards for hillwalkers and climbers

• Access to Mountaineering Ireland Training Grant schemes

• More here

So, what’s the craic?

We have three membership types on offer, so if you have your own insurance we have a spot for you! They are:

All In

This membership type comprises all of the benefits outlined above, best of both worlds if you will, from Belfast Climbing Club and Mountaineering Ireland. We’ll even do all of the hard work for you, we’ll complete your affiliation with Mountaineering Ireland on your behalf.

Existing MI

Ah, you’ve already signed up with another club with Mountaineering Ireland? Don’t worry, even if we’re not you’re number one we’d still love you to be a part of our community. With this membership type you’re already a part of Mountaineering Ireland thus we’ll sign you up as a direct Belfast Climbing Club member so that you can avail of our benefits and link your MI account with BCC!

Bring Your Own

So you already have insurance that you want to make the most of but still want to be a part of Belfast Climbing Club? Well, you can! If you have insurance with a recognised external mountaineering body such as AAC or BMC etc then why don’t you sign up?

Let’s talk money

Belfast Climbing Club’s membership fee is £10 and dependent on the membership type applicable to you and your age will vary the price you pay. The information below outlines the ins and outs. Unfortunately due to Pound/Euro fluctuations, prices are subject to change for All In membership type.

Type	Age	Belfast Climbing Club	Mountaineering Ireland	Total
All In	Under 23	£10	£18.45	£28.45
	Over 23		£31.50	£41.50
Existing MI	Under 23		N/A	£10
	Over 23
Bring Your Own	Under 23
	Over 23

Please note that we can only accept memberships from individuals over the age of 18. Not to worry, we have a sister club, Belfast Youth Climbing Club, and they can be contacted here.

You drive a hard bargain but I’m in!

Awesome, that’s exactly what we like to hear! Head on over to join.belfastclimbingclub.co.uk and follow the prompts. The form will guide you and dependent on your answers it’ll direct you to the membership type that’s suitable for you. That’s all there is to it, we’ll take care of the rest.

Interested in knowing the nitty gritty? Here’s the process in the fine detail.

Once you sign up we will be notified that you want to become a member (yay!) and to standby for your payment

1. You will receive an email confirming how much you owe and the details by which to transfer your payment

2. Once your payment has been received, for your membership type, we will:

   • All in

     • Add your details to the Mountaineering Ireland member portal

     • Transfer the portion relating to the affiliation cost of your membership to Mountaineering Ireland

     • Once your membership card is received post it out to you

   • Existing MI

     • Add you as an associate member to BCC in the Mountaineering Ireland member portal

   • Bring your own

     • Verify the membership evidence you provided as part of your registration

3. Update your membership outlining you’re the best Belfast Climbing Club member

I’m still unsure

Not to worry, don’t hesitate to reach out on membership@belfastclimbingclub.co.uk.